Palolem beach

Arriving at 5am onto the dark beach we were thrilled to find a beacon of light coming from an open bar. As soon as we neared, the waiters offered us a room right on the beach and next to the bar. It was a perfect position from which to view the enitre beach and at 7pound a night for the room a bargain as well. Known as the paradise of India it definately lived up to its name. It was also a great place to spend my birthday (23 now!) and we spent the day dolphin watching with manicures, pedicaures, massages and plenty of cocktails. After a couple of days we were on the move again this time to North Goa, Baga beach.

Kerela - Goa

From Varkala it was on to Trivandrum. From here we had planned to make a day visit to the tip of India where the three seas met. After a quick phonecall to our Bangalore host we were informed that our tickets were booked earlier than expected and that we were leaving for Goa in the morning. After another overnight train we arrived in beautiful Goa.

Varkala

Spending only one night in Varkala was a little disappointing as it was such a lovely place. Along the top of the cliff were lovely little shops and restaurents which came alive at sunset, selling the catch of the day on display panels including Kingfish and huge Swordfish (complete with sword haha). From the cliff top it was a short walk down the face to the little beach. Lovely place but little time there.

Alappuzha

Next we were off to Alappuzha or Alleppey, same place but different names (a very Indian thing). After a very uncomfortable bus ride which felt like we were being slowly cooled over hot plates, (the seats were like iron rods) we arrived in Alappuzha. There wasn't anything to see in Alappuzha but this was the best place from which to hire a houseboat. This deep into the Kerelan backwaters the mosquitos were triple the size of their murderous northern cousins. Julie and I spent a good hour killing them all, sweet revenge and also giving the walls a new coat of paint.

The next day we had hired a houseboat for a full day and night tour of the backwaters. It came complete with three staff members (or minions as Jo liked to call them) and food/drink. After a lovely day crusing the waters on the sundeck we were to settle in for the night moored off an island. Having the slowest boat on the water, with literally every other boat passing us (brings back memories of Lake Havusu) meant it was night before the oarmen tried to manoever the boat between the reeds to the shore. By this time it was pitch black and the bugs were out in force. While waiting for our tea (a difficult task when again the staff don't understand anything your asking them) we sat and watched the fork lightening overhead lighting up the sky. All in all a great time minus the millions of bugs. Our next stop was a short bus ride down to the coastal town of Varkala, our first beach stop.

Kumily

Next was Kumily a short step from Periyar National Park. Arriving again during the middle of the night after a very long, bumpy and cold bus ride we decided toe spend the next day for R and R. Apart from the proximity to the national park, Kumily was also a great place to explore the Spice gardens and nearby tea plantations. We decided to do a tour of the gardens and plantation, which turned out to be in a took-took, which ended up breaking down. The tour was rather interesting and we were shown a whole manner of plants and herbs including the coco plant, black pepper, aloe vera and even viagra. After climbing up the steep hill to the rubber trees and seeing huge spiders (and getting attacked by ants) we decided to move swiftly on to the tea plantation.

Here we watched the women at work in the fields picking the tea leaves and then moved into the factory to watch the tea making process. Later that evening we decided to watch another Kerelan dance (strangely enough the last one hadn't dettered us) except this dance was to involve knifes, swords and fire. Performed in a swimming pool/ampitheatre the dance was rather enjoyable especially when the sparks flew from the clashing metal and when they jumped through fire hoops, a much improved view of the Kerelan dance after the disaster of the last.

Early next morning (6am yawn) we took another boat to sightsee in the national park, we saw an eagle and an otter in the hour and half we spent on the freezing water!!

Kochin

Arriving again at 5 in the morning we had to negogiate our way to our hotel in Ernakulam. Though we were spending a few days in Kochin so we could make it a leisurely tour, once we were settled.
After browsing the streets in the day we decided to go and see a traditional Kerelan dance in the evening. Being highly recommended by many of the guide books we expected it to be quite spectacular. However what we saw was rather different. We arrived early to watch the dancers make-up, as they plied thick rather scary face paint. The introductory act was an old man making rather absurd facial expressions and movements to signify the simpliest of things like 'butterfly'. The narrator/drummer told us how the man got up every morning at 5am to practise and that he'd being doing it for years. This was then followed by the dance in which the prince and princess fell in love, this involved two men making a rather lot of arm shakes and foot stamping. Needless to say we were less than impressed with the dance.

The next day we decided to take a backwater tour on a traditional Kerelan houseboat followed by a much smaller canoe. The boat was filled with Eastern Europeans, and Irish couple and ourselves. The boat trip was very calming and enjoyable until we arrived at a Sodium factory, the trip then went from enjoyable to tediously boring. Making a quick getaway Jo and I legged it back to the boat (I'm sure the stuff wasn't entirely good for you to inhale either) while the others explored the herb garden, fascinating stuff. From there it was onto the canoes as the Indian guides drove us along with sticks. We got to explore deeper into the backwater life and watched men making boats and women rope-making. Later we stopped to drink from coconuts that one of the guides had shimmied up the tree to get. Standing in the field amongst the coconut palms and marijuna plants we sipped the coconut which was disgusting (some liked it!!!). It was no suprise that some of the tourists were trying to secretly throw them when the guides weren't looking. However, the highlight of the day had ot be Jo's entrance into the canoe, just as another tourist was getting into the front. This left her spreadeagled between the boat moving one way and the land the other, rather amusing to all around again, haha.

The next few days we spent browsing the old fishing village and shops of the Fort Kochin area. We were rather alarmed to find, when trying to get across to the Fort area that the boat next to the one we were on had sunk and even more concerned when after starting our journey we were made to move boats. Thankfully we made it there and back safely.

We'd also arranged to go visit an elephant training centre and wash the elephants. It was an amazing experience washing the family of elephants including the baby. However, all tourists present (except 1 american woman) were rather shocked and annoyed by the treatment the elephants recieved. The handlers were discipling the elephants with metal prods with hooks on the end. Things didn't fair much better for the elephants at the training camp either and after giving the trainers a few harsh words we decided to leave along with the other tourists (except the American who opted to ride the poor animal).

Bangalore revisited

After a rough night in Hampi and an even more uncomfortable bus ride to Bangalore, I was sent to hospital with a bad stomach. I didn't think it was anything worse than a few pills could solve but clearly the docter had other ideas and pretty soon I was horrified to learn I was to be hooked up to two drips. Ignoring my gasps of disbelieve and horror I spent most of the afternoon in a hospital bed and left later in the day with a full carrier bag of pills and sachets. After two nights in Bangalore to re-cooperate we were off again this time on another overnight train further south to Kerala.

Hampi

Our trip to Hampi involved an 11 hour bus drive through the night, stopping at every town and nearly every field along the way. The bus was jam packed, luckily we were first on and we were able to grab seats at the front with space for our bags. The bus didn't seem to have a person limit and also a whole manner of goods made its way onto the bus including cookers, bundles of sticks and straw, and what appeared to be a bag of bricks (I kid you not!). Arriving at the unhospitable Hospet at 5.30 in the morning we had to negotiate with a whole manner of cheating rickshw drivers in order to take us the 12 k to Hampi.

Once settled Hampi appeared to be a rather unusual place and the scenery was unlike any we'd seen before. The little town was shrouded by large boulders and coconut forests. Hampi is another pilgrimage spot in India which meant it was a 'dry' (something not everyone complies with) town and no meat could also be served. Only spending the one night there meant we had a whistle stop rickshaw tour of the surrounding temples and elephant stables, passing the many bannana fields on the way. Hampi is very prone to powercuts, something we were to get used to later in India and we spent half an hour trying to negogiate our way back to the hotel complex in total darkness.

Hampi was another place in which many people spent months 'finding themselves', though wee did run into a rather interesting Irish boy who was cycling across India. The next day we were off again on an overnight sleepwe bus back to Bangalore.

Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary

Even though the nights stay at Bandipur was way over budget it was definately one of the better decisions that we had made. As we arrived we were shown to our cottage type room and then we promptly set up camp next to the huge pool (our first in India). Though there were others with the same idea and we met a lovely couple from Essex. Jo made a great entrance to the poool when having been warned by one of the men that it was slippery she slid down the steps the minute later, grabbing the other man and nearly exposing him. I missed the photo opportunity but could hear the laughter from our cottage. After lunch we were to makie our first safari into the jungle.

Thundering along in a cattle style truck we were sure we wouldn't see anything with the sheer noise of the thing. However, we all got rather excited when we came across water buffalo, a barely visable leopard, wild dogs, monkeys, samba and a herd of elephants trying to charge us, we were all a little relieved we'd chosen the truck over the jeep at that point. Julie was almost gagged to stop her screams of excitement at the advancing elephants. Strangely enough our party consisted of a lovely Indian family (ones that didnt stare or take our picture, a novelty in India) the girls had met the previous day, ourselves and Mr and Mrs Essex who by this point everyone had thought made us a group of five. After the Safari we were greeted with dinner, bonfire and a very boring video about the activites of the Park.

Next morning we were up very early for the 6am safari. In no way were we again prepared for the extreme cold we faced (I bet its nothing like what your facing back home though). With our many bright layers and multi-coloured scarfs we certainly didnt look the safari going type. However, neither did the Essex's as they turned up a minute later in shorts and T-shirts something they were to pay for later. Again the five of us piled into the Safari jeep and set out in search of the elusive Tiger. An eager and well equipped Italian and Indian couple had already taken the first safari jeep. The temperature appeared to be in the minus (well probably) and little sightings were made in the first hour. The now shivering Englishmen were lent a scarf and blanket.

After spotting a horned Samba and a water buffalo our Safari came to a temporary stop after we suffered a puncture. Piling out into the jungle wasn't the safest part of our journey but within fifteen minutes they had us back on the road. Back to camp, then back to Mysore for the onward bus. A thoroughly great time, minus the fact that I left my DK book (our only guide book) there.

Mysore

Our first bus journey took us to Mysore, further South than Bangalore. Here we happened to have the worst room of our stay so far, it didn't help that I fell ill and had to spend the day in bed there either. Having spent the first day browsing the city we decided there wasn't much to see really. The next day the girls browsed the Amber Vilas Palace (which was apparently the most amazing seen so far, sadly the only one I missed and no pictures were allowed) and Brindaven gardens with musical waterfalls (much less impressive apparently). The next day we'd booked a rather expensive (for our standards) package trip to a nearby National Park. Early next morning the driver picked us up to make the hour and a half drive to Bandipur Wildlife sanctuary. We were to leave Mysore for now with a little less energy and a lot more bites.

Bangalore

Our impressions of Bangalore were vastly different to the rest of India. Already we could see that the South was gonna be a lot more relaxed than the North. The impression had nothing to do with the fact that we were able to enjoy comfy beds and lovely homecooked food at the friends relatives we were staying at (H's parents for those who know). As soon as we were picked up from the airport by our host in the air conditioned car and greeted with sweets and snacks we knew we were going to enjoy Bangalore.
The next day we were given the chauffeur driven car and taken on a tour of Bangalore's best sights including Vidhana Saudha (the secretariat of State) and lots of random parks. After being treated to lovely meals out at BBQ nation (yum) and other restaurents we were painting the town red again, this time with the 'Bangalore playboys'. An interesting mix of people but a rather fun night out. One the boys, who cannot be named for legal reasons (haha) was driving the other car while swigging a bottle of Whiskey. After spending 4 days with home comforts we didn't want to leave but sadly thought it was best to push on, to explore more of Karnataka.

'The Flight'

The flight between Mumbai and Bangalore was rather amusing for many reasons. As we boarded the plane we were ordered to take a 2 sec trip via coach to the plane, a distance we could clearly of walked. While boarding we were instructed to board from the front of the plane (even though we were seated in the last row) and much to our horror passengers began boarding from the back, meaning we were sandwiched in. Panic averted we carried on only to discover that our seats were occupied by a family (untrue) and would we mind sitting somewhere else. This wasn't a problem yet they still moved us twice more before take off and I was moved back to my original seat with the others during the flight. Even though it was just over an hour, could only happen in India.

Mumbai, the end!

The rest of our trip involved a trip to Elephanta Island in which we climbed 100 stone steps filled with market sellers to view ancient caves carved into the mountainside. You could actually pay Indians around 3 quid and 4 would carry you up in a wooden chair!! At the top we got to feed the many monkeys gathered around the caves. We also went to the cinema to take in our first Bollywood picture, rather good actually. The seats fully reclined and the snacks offered were pretty good as well. We were rather confused when the national anthem came on and Indians stood. The 9th was Diwali (The Indian Xmas) today we were to fly to Bangalore to stay with friends parents, we took off to a sea of fireworks, pretty amazing.

Mumbai, the rest.

The next day we rose bright and early to join a 12 hour bus tour of the city, little did we know the hell it would be. The tour got off to a great start when exiting the bus at the first stop I fell down the stairs, much to the horror of the bus assistant and myself. Panic aside my dignity was saved as I managed to cling to the pole at the side of the steps. I blame the damn cocktails!!
Drama aside the tour offered an extensive view of the city for a very cheap price, 100 rupees (around one pound twenty) per person. Though it didn't help that the tour was mainly conducted in Hindi and the guide would shout out random sights to the three westerners just after we'd passed them.
However, we did get a tour of the Prince of Wales museum, a tiny aquarium (in which there were around 40 sharks in a 20" by 20" tank. Strangely enough no pictures were allowed), The Gateway of India and then drove 2 hours out of the center to see a beach in darkness, all in all a good day out (ahem!).

The next day we decided to take it easy and went for lunch at the revolving restaurant high above Marine drive, in all fairness the restaurant offered amazing views of the city and the chilled music and movement meant we stayed for nearly two of the 90 minute turns. That night a friend of Ju's had arranged a night out with a few of his friends. This showed us a completely different side to the India we had already seen. The girls sent their chauffeur driven, pimped out car to pick us up and take us along to the bar we had arranged to meet at. They were definately 'glam' girls who told us they had daily manicures and pedicures, refused to take public transport and loved shopping at Jane Norman in the UK. From the hotel bar we moved onto a very exclusive club, members only (theres nothing bribery won't get you in India), where we sipped martinis of every flavor. At 7 quid a pop they were way over our 'backpacker' budget and we decided to sip the one we had bought for the rest of the night. However, the girls were knocking back theirs and encouraging us to do the same (I don't know where they put them as their waists were the circumference of a small saucepan). The bar was quite interesting, a mix of R'n'B and Indian Bangra, we felt rather underdressed in the garb that had been in our backpacks for the last three weeks. Yet we ran into some very amusing young Indians in the toilet. Dressed in bum skimming lyrca (it really was that small) they were rammed into the toilet, while the 15yr old sister of the one girl was throwing up all over the toilet and the toilet attendant, boy did it stink. Offering some helpful advice Jo suggested that they take the girl home, who was hunched over the toilet with her head between her legs. To which her sister replied, 'She's fine she needs to walk it off'. With that they grabbed the scrunchy wearer and dragged her out of the toilet to the chorus of 'Let's bounce bitches'. Another different take on the India in which we get stared at because we show off our arms.

Mumbai, day one

Mumbai was certainly a lot different to Delhi. As soon as we stepped of the train we could feel the 'Bombay heat' and it sweltered for the next 5 days. After we'd slept off 'the train', we headed out to Marine drive to take in the views of the ocean. There we spotted a lovely Italian and jazz bar popular with many tourists. Later we arrived there for the karaoke session, which involved many drunk Indians belting out the western karaoke favorites. There we satisfied our desire for alcohol and ended the dry spell, finally!!

Delhi - Mumbai, 'The train'.

Before we were to arrive in Mumbai (the former Bombay) we had to experience our first Indian train. The journey was an experience within itself which involved us clamering into three bunks and my first Indian toilet (basically a hole in the ground). Yet we arrived bright and early on the 5th to start our tour of Mumbai and for us the start of the South as well.

Back to Delhi

Arriving midnight back in Delhi we again opted to stick to familiar ground and checked into another hotel in the Main bazaar, our previous haunt. Here we were to leave the safety of our driver and car, and head off on our own to Mumbai. This signaled the end of our whistle stop tour of the North and now we were to head on to the South.

Shimla

After another grueling day of driving we arrived in the hillside town of Shimla. Nestled high into the steep clifface, Shimla was once the former summer residence of the British government in India, this was clearly evident in the architecture of the town. It was also the first place in which we spotted a church, quite a novelty after viewing many Hindu, Muslim and Sikh holy places.
Arriving late evening in Shimla we only had time to check into our hotel and sightseeing was postponed until the following day. Dining in the hotels restaurant was an interesting choice as half of the food was 'unavailable' and the first waiter couldn't speak a word of English. Spending the morning sightseeing meant the rest of the day would involve the 12 hour drive back to Delhi, something we were well used to at this point, argghhhhh!!

Manali

After a brief two night stay in Dharmashala, we were to head further South to Manali. We were in no way prepared for the extreme cold we were to experience in Manali, having only recently left the desert. Arriving late evening the temperature was at an all time low which involved stocking up on the winter woolies the town had to offer. After browsing the market stalls selling their range of winter blankets and scarfs, and passing the many street fires we headed back for an early night.

Next morning we were up bright and early for our 30k drive up the steep cliff face to the Rotang Pass 13,000ft above Manali. Meandering up the steep road through streams of ice and men tarmarcing the road as we drove was very unsettling, not least due to the fact that Jo screamed at the driver every two minutes and at one point on the cliffs edge, exited the car. However, we finally made it to the top after much grumbling and wearing what once appeared to be a bear. Little did we now we would now have to climb 2k further up the mountain just to get to the snow.

After a couple of hours at the top of the moutain in the freezing snow we were to head back down the 'road of death' and prepare for our onward Journey to Shimla.

Dharmashala

Dharmashala was definately a new side to India that we hadn't yet explored. Nestled into the mountainside the chilled area was a haven for backpackers and tibetan monks. The temperature had definately dropped as we had ascended into the Himalyas yet the views from the mountainside were amazing. Dharmashala was a clear favourite for the many backpackers that we encountered along the way not least due to the fact that it offered extensive courses in cookery, meditation and a whole manner of other activities.
Now the official refuge of the Tibetan government the peaceful town was filled with monks and was also the home of the Dalai Lama. Even though we were far up in the hills we still managed to run into a rowdy crowd from Wales, who were there working for St. Johns Ambulance.