Manali

After a brief two night stay in Dharmashala, we were to head further South to Manali. We were in no way prepared for the extreme cold we were to experience in Manali, having only recently left the desert. Arriving late evening the temperature was at an all time low which involved stocking up on the winter woolies the town had to offer. After browsing the market stalls selling their range of winter blankets and scarfs, and passing the many street fires we headed back for an early night.

Next morning we were up bright and early for our 30k drive up the steep cliff face to the Rotang Pass 13,000ft above Manali. Meandering up the steep road through streams of ice and men tarmarcing the road as we drove was very unsettling, not least due to the fact that Jo screamed at the driver every two minutes and at one point on the cliffs edge, exited the car. However, we finally made it to the top after much grumbling and wearing what once appeared to be a bear. Little did we now we would now have to climb 2k further up the mountain just to get to the snow.

After a couple of hours at the top of the moutain in the freezing snow we were to head back down the 'road of death' and prepare for our onward Journey to Shimla.

Dharmashala

Dharmashala was definately a new side to India that we hadn't yet explored. Nestled into the mountainside the chilled area was a haven for backpackers and tibetan monks. The temperature had definately dropped as we had ascended into the Himalyas yet the views from the mountainside were amazing. Dharmashala was a clear favourite for the many backpackers that we encountered along the way not least due to the fact that it offered extensive courses in cookery, meditation and a whole manner of other activities.
Now the official refuge of the Tibetan government the peaceful town was filled with monks and was also the home of the Dalai Lama. Even though we were far up in the hills we still managed to run into a rowdy crowd from Wales, who were there working for St. Johns Ambulance.

Amritser

After a nights rest in Gandhinagar, we were to head straight to Amritser. Amritser was a very busy city and arriving late afternoon meant that we only got to see its two major attractions, the Golden temple and the closing of the border with Pakistan.

Firstly, was the border closing which was a very dramatic ceremony with crowds gathered on either side of the gate from both India and Pakistan. As soon as we arrived we were ushered to the VIP section along with the other westerners. The Indians gathered were certainly enjoying the celebrations and chants rose up from both sides of the border along with dancing and racing. Yet again as white women we received a lot of unwanted attention from the crowd gathered, however as a child tried to sell me unwanted goods a guard ran towards him and smacked the back of his head, quite shocking but then I wish I could take him everywhere with me in India.

Next was the golden temple, the holy place for the Sikhs. Pretty amazing both inside and out, yet again our experience was a little tainted as a Sikh claimed to our guide that as non Sikhs we 'shouldnt be in their heaven', this fuelled a heavy debate between our guide and the man, and we decided to leave as soon as possible. Next was another lengthy drive to the Himalyan area, first stop there Dharmshala.

Khuri

We arrived at Khuri bright and early in high spirits for the excitement of the day ahead, little did we know what was in store for us! After mounting our camels, to screams of horror from ourselves and too much laughter from the locals and in particular our driver Arun, we headed off towards the sand dunes.

Within half an hour Jo had screamed about 100 times and thus dismounted the camel twice to much amusement from myself. After then deciding to ride tandem with the camel farmer we then proceeded to trek further into the sand under the boiling hot sun. Our lunch consisted of a 4 hour long rest under a tree in the middle of the sand dunes, while the 3 farmers with broken English cooked a nice (under the circumstances) meal on a camp fire.

Our trek home was a little more interesting, with all 3 of us screaming at the camel farmers as we were left to wander randomly through the desert with myself leading and no direction given. The very painful safari ended with a rather amusing evenings entertainment. As we were again greeted with dal, chappattis and rice, we were to discover the delights of a 'ladyboy's seductive dance' and a girl who picked up pins and razor blades from upside down with her face.

After discovering the painful experience was setting us back a lot of money and that the third party of the group was only to get a mattress for the night, we kicked up a fuss and got two rooms for the price of one, bargain! Though we couldn't wait to leave Khuri and the awful camel experience even if it meant the long 12 hour drive to our next location. Moral of the story, only do a half a day camel safari, with people that understand what your saying!!!

Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer was actually a pretty interesting city even though it was in the middle of the Thar desert. After much heated debate with the owner of the guest house and a few 'lonely planet' threats we managed to secure a room in an alternative hotel while we waited for the 500yr old Haveli to become available. Arriving 2 weeks early hadn't actually helped the situation either but on the second night we were shown into the amazing old Haveli in the Jaisalmer Fort.

We spent the next day exploring the Gadisagar Lake, a dodgy jewellery 'home', (much like a scene from a maffia movie minus the guns), the Patwon ki Haveli and the palace inside the fort with views of the Jain Temples.

At night the fort comes alive with a whole manner of little shops opening their doors to display their wares, and with cows and children roaming and playing in the street. After sampling an Italian that over used Rosemary we decided to get henna tattoos, which were beautiful but washed off after a few days. On the final night after a lovely meal on our private terrace followed by a rather lengthy lecture on the 'importance of girls over boys' by the crazed but interesting part owner of the Haveli, we made our way to bed. Next for us was Khuri, making our way further into the desert for the camel safari.

Pushkar/Jodphur

After a quick two night stay in Jaipur to recover, we were then on our way to Jodphur via Pushkar. 'Pushkar very cheating men' states our driver Arun, (something he says alot, without explanation), as the girls are roped into giving a large donation to a sacred lake.

Jodphur however seemed a little nicer than Pushkar. We were greeted by a sea of blue as the town is appropriately nicknamed the blue city. After stopping over night in an ancient havelli type hotel we then spent the day exploring Jodphur with a rather strange tour guide called 'Taco', or 'No fear' as he wished to be called. We spent the day touring the amazing fort which had a whole manner of activities happening that day, including local dancing and a tiny indian man jumping on a tight rope. We also explored another temple and the Unmaid palace, location of Liz Hurley's wedding.

After being stalked around the town by a rather strange internet cafe owner, and with 'No fear' unable 'to give advive on the town'??? we then decided to make it a one night stay and make the 6 hour journey to the desert of Jaisalmer.

Jaipur

Sadly, not much to report from Jaipur as Juliette and I got struck down with a serious dose of Delhi belly and spent most of the day in bed. We did manage to take a stroll around the Pink city and the fort, and ran into some very large monkeys on the way. During the night we were visited by a very drunk member of the Guest House staff, ensuring a lot of panic on our part, however, after a call to the Guest House owner we were assured our safety as the man was now locked in the basement, haha.